Housing –Be sure to provide proper shelter for your pets. If yours is an indoor pet, his bed or crate should be kept in a warm, draft-free area. If your pet is kept outdoors, provide a warm insulated pet house or shelter. The house should be elevated enough so that moisture cannot accumulate inside. If possible, provide a "door" (store bought or perhaps of canvas) to keep out the winter winds. If the wind chill or other weather conditions become severe, bring your pet inside.

Frostbite – Remove ice and snow from your pet’s paws and coat at once. Frostbitten skin may turn reddish, white or gray, and it may be scaly or sloughing. If you suspect frostbite, take your pet to a warm place immediately. Thaw out frostbitten areas slowly by applying warm, moist towels that are changed frequently. Contact your veterinarian as soon as possible.

Snow Removal Salt – Some substances produced to melt ice and snow have low to moderate toxicity, depending on the ingredients and amount ingested. Read the labels and take necessary precaution. Keep these products stored in tight containers out of your pet and children’s reach. Be sure to remove salt from your pet’s paws immediately.

Antifreeze – Even a very small amount of antifreeze can be fatal. Precautions are necessary with all antifreeze products on the market. Read labels and warnings carefully. Thoroughly clean up spills at once. Keep containers closed tightly and store them where pets cannot get to them.

Napping Cats – Cats sometimes climb onto vehicle engines for warmth. Before starting your vehicle, knock on the hood and honk the horn. Even if your own cat does not have access to your vehicle, a neighbor’s cat might have taken shelter there.

Food – Staying warm requires extra calories, so feed your pet accordingly when the temperature drops. Talk to your veterinarian for advice on feeding your pet.

Water – Always have fresh, clean water available for your pet. If your pet is kept outdoors, be sure to check his water frequently since it may freeze.

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EMERGENCIES AND FIRST AID For Your Dog and Cat Companions

What kinds of emergencies might occur? 

There are many possible emergencies from automobile injury, to acute internal problems such as an intestinal blockage, but the following are the most serious and require immediate attention:

- Any severe difficulty in breathing 

- Cardiac failure

- Massive hemorrhage 

- Profound shock from any cause

- Anaphylaxis (severe allergic reactions)

- Penetrating wounds of the thorax (chest) or abdomen

- Coma and loss of consciousness

- Poisoning 

- Massive injuries to the body 

- Seizures - Burns and scalds 

- Heat stroke

- Bites and fight wounds 

- Continuous vomiting and/or diarrhea 

What can I do while getting veterinary help? 

1) Keep calm. 2) Contact the veterinary hospital, appraise them of the situation and get first aid advice. 3) Keep your cat or dog warm, as quiet as possible, and keep movement to a minimum if there is possible trauma, broken limbs, etc. 4) For specific aid refer to the following table. 5) Obtain a suitable container such as a strong cardboard box. Drop a blanket or thick towel over the patient. Tuck it in carefully or maneuver the cat or dog onto the blanket so it can be gently placed in the cardboard box or directly into your car. 6) Get to a veterinary hospital as soon as possible, but drive carefully! 

Emergency Situation 

Automobile injury 

- Make sure your cat or dog has a clear airway, but do not put your hand in its mouth if your cat or dog is conscious. Cover wounds with the cleanest material available. Handle your cat or dog with care, supporting its body as much as possible. Carry it in a basket, box, or cage to the veterinary hospital. Bleeding (hemorrhage) - If hemorrhage is severe on a limb, apply a tourniquet above the wound just tight enough to significantly reduce flow of blood; it has to be loosened within 20 minutes. Apply a pad of cotton or wool over a gauze dressing to the wound or bleeding point and bandage it firmly and/or simply apply direct pressure. Seizures - Prevent your cat or dog from injuring itself. Do not put your hand in its mouth. Keep your cat or dog as quiet as possible and prevent it from falling.

Burns and scalds - Cool the burned area with cool water by running water over it or cover it with wet towels. This also helps remove caustic substances (acid or alkaline) if these are the cause. If loss of skin occurs, cover the area with the cleanest material available.

Heat stroke - Place your cat or dog in a tub of cool water. When you are ready to transport it to the veterinary hospital, wrap it in a cool, wet towel.

Hemorrhagic gastroenteritis - Seek veterinary attention. This is a serious condition. (diarrhea with blood; with or without vomiting) 

Bites, fight wounds - Clean with cool water and seek veterinary attention. 

Poisons - Induce vomiting with 5 mL (1 teaspoon) of hydrogen peroxide orally. Keep a sample of the vomit for testing. DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING if your cat or dog has ingested acidic or alkaline products. If corrosive or toxic material is on the skin, wash it profusely. Bring a sample of the suspected poison with its container to the veterinary hospital. 

Eye injury - If the cornea is penetrated or perforated it will be very painful. Prevent your cat or dog from scratching at its eye and doing further damage. If the eyeball is out of its socket keep it moist with saline solution (e.g. contact lens solution) and protect it from direct injury. Seek veterinary help immediately. 

Shock (see below) - Keep your cat or dog warm and quiet. Seek immediate veterinary help. 

What is shock? 

Shock has many definitions. It is a complex body reaction to a number of situations. These include acute loss of blood volume such as hemorrhage, heart failure and other causes of decreased circulation (e.g. severe and sudden allergic reaction and heat stroke). If not treated quickly and effectively shock may cause irreversible injury to body cells, and it can be rapidly fatal. How do I recognize shock? Signs include rapid breathing which may be noisy, rapid heart rate with a weak pulse, pale (possibly even white) mucous membranes (for instance gums, lips, under eyelids) and severe depression (listlessness) and cool extremities (limbs and ears). The cat or dog may vomit. What should I do? Seek veterinary help immediately. Keep the cat or dog warm and quiet.

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Heart Disease

Facts You Should Know

Common Heart Diseases Dogs and cats only rarely get coronary artery disease, the most common cause of heart attacks in people. Dogs and cats do not commonly suffer heart attacks. Many of the recommendations you hear about how to prevent high cholesterol and heart disease in humans do not apply to your pet.

Young dogs and cats may be born with congenital heart disease, a form of birth defect. Hearing a heart murmur during routine examination of puppies and kittens is the first clue that a congenital heart disease is present. Further testing is necessary to determine how serious the birth defect is and whether surgical or medical treatment is needed. Fortunately, many animals with congenital heart disease can live normal lives. To avoid passing the defect on to the next generation, these animals should not be bred.

Older dogs and cats can develop (acquire) heart disease that eventually cause the heart to fail. Often the first evidence of an acquired heart disease is an abnormal sound while listening to the heart with a stethoscope during a routine annual physical examination. Further testing is necessary to determine how serious the problem is and whether medical or surgical treatment is needed.

Common Cardiac Tests The most commonly used tests for evaluating cardiac disease in dogs and cats are: ·

1. Physical Examination
2. Chest Radiograph (X-ray evaluation of the heart and lungs)
3. Electrocardiography (evaluation of the electrical activity in the heart)
4.  Echocardiography (ultrasound of the heart allows visualization of the size, shape, and movement of the heart)
5. Advanced Techniques-Doppler Echocardiography, Color Flow Doppler Echocardiography, Cardiac Catheterization

What Signs Should I Look For?    

Lack of energy

Irregular and rapid breathing

Weight loss / loss of appetite

Abdominal swelling

What do I do now?

Heart disease cannot be cured, but it can be Lack of energy treated. A treatment plan can be developed Irregular and rapid breathing with you and your pet in mind. Periodic Weight loss / loss of appetite check-ups are important to evaluate your Abdominal swelling pet's progress. By adhering to the professional advice of your veterinarian and with your own careful attention, your pet can often live a comfortable and longer life.

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CANINE HEARTWORM DISEASE

What, when, where and why

What causes heartworm disease?

Heartworm disease (dirofilariasis) is a serious and potentially fatal disease in dogs. It is caused by a worm called Dirofilaria immitis. Heartworms are found in the heart and large adjacent vessels of infected dogs. The female worm is six to 14 inches (15 to 36 cm) long and 1/8 inch (5 mm) wide; the male is about half the size of the female. One dog may have as many as 300 worms. How do heartworms get into the heart? Adult heartworms live in the heart and pulmonary arteries of infected dogs. They have been found in other areas of the body, but this is unusual. They survive up to five years and, during this time, the female produces millions of young (microfilaria). These microfilaria live in the bloodstream, mainly in the small blood vessels. The immature heartworms cannot complete the entire life cycle in the dog; the mosquito is required for some stages of the heartworm life cycle. The microfilaria are therefore not infective (cannot grow to adulthood) in the dog - although they do cause problems. As many as 30 species of mosquitoes can transmit heartworms. The female mosquito bites the infected dog and ingests the microfilariae during a blood meal. The microfilariae develop further for 10 to 30 days in the mosquito and then enter the mouth parts of the mosquito. The microfilariae are now called infective larvae because at this stage of development, they will grow to adulthood when they enter a dog. The mosquito bites the dog where the hair coat is thinnest. However, having long hair does not prevent a dog from getting heartworms. When fully developed, the infective larvae enter the bloodstream and move to the heart and adjacent vessels, where they grow to maturity in two to three months and start reproducing, thereby completing the full life cycle.

Where are heartworms found? Canine heartworm disease occurs all over the world. In the United States, it was once limited to the south and southeast regions. However, the disease is spreading and is now found in most regions of the United States and Canada, particularly where mosquitoes are prevalent. How do dogs get infected with them? The disease is not spread directly from dog to dog. An intermediate host, the mosquito, is required for transmission. Spread of the disease therefore coincides with the mosquito season. The number of dogs infected and the length of the mosquito season are directly correlated with the incidence of heartworm disease in any given area. It takes a number of years before dogs show outward signs of infection. Consequently, the disease is diagnosed mostly in four to eight year old dogs. The disease is seldom diagnosed in a dog under one year of age because the young worms (larvae) take up to seven months to mature following establishment of infection in a dog.

What do heartworms do to the dog? Adult worms: Adult worms cause disease by clogging the heart and major blood vessels leading from the heart. They interfere with the valve action in the heart. By clogging the main blood vessels, the blood supply to other organs of the body is reduced, particularly the lungs, liver and kidneys, leading to malfunction of these organs. Most dogs infected with heartworms do not show any signs of disease for as long as two years. Unfortunately, by the time signs are seen, the disease is well advanced. The signs of heartworm disease depend on the number of adult worms present, the location of the worms, the length of time the worms have been present, and the degree of damage to the heart, lungs, liver, and kidneys from the adult worms and the microfilariae. The most obvious signs are: a soft, dry, chronic cough, shortness of breath, weakness, nervousness, listlessness, and loss of stamina. All of these signs are most noticeable following exercise, when some dogs may even faint. Listening to the chest with a stethoscope will often reveal abnormal lung and heart sounds. In advanced cases, congestive heart failure may be apparent and the abdomen and legs will swell from fluid accumulation. There may also be evidence of weight loss, poor condition, and anemia. Severely infected dogs may die suddenly during exercise or excitement. Microfilariae (Young worms): Microfilariae circulate throughout the body but remain primarily in the small blood vessels. Because they are as wide as the small vessels, they may block blood flow in these vessels. The body cells being supplied by these vessels are deprived of the nutrients and oxygen normally supplied by the blood. The lungs and liver are primarily affected. Destruction of lung tissue leads to coughing. Cirrhosis of the liver causes jaundice, anemia, and general weakness because this organ is essential in maintaining a healthy animal. The kidneys may also be affected and allow poisons to accumulate in the body.

How is heartworm infection diagnosed? In most cases, diagnosis of heartworm disease can be made by a blood test that can be run in the veterinary hospital or by a veterinary laboratory. Further diagnostic procedures are essential, in advanced cases particularly, to determine if the dog can tolerate heartworm treatment. Depending on the case, we will recommend some or all of the following procedures before treatment is started. Serological test for antigens to adult heartworms: This is a test performed on a blood sample. It is the most widely used test because it detects antigens (proteins) produced by adult heartworms. It will be positive even if the dog does not have any microfilaria in the blood; this occurs about 20% of the time. Dogs with less than five adult heartworms will not have enough antigen to turn the test positive, so there may be some false negative results in early infections. Because the antigen detected is produced only by the female worm, a pure population of male heartworms will also give a false negative. Therefore, there must be at least five female worms present for the most common test to be positive. Blood test for microfilariae: A blood sample is examined under the microscope for the presence of microfilariae. If microfilariae are seen, the test is positive. The number of microfilariae seen gives us a general indication of the severity of the infection. However, the microfilariae are seen in greater numbers in the summer months and in the evening, so these variations must be considered. Approximately 20% of dogs do not test positive even though they have heartworms because of an acquired immunity to this stage of the heartworm. Because of this, the antigen test is the preferred test. Also, there is another microfilarial parasite which is fairly common in dogs; on the blood smear, these can be hard to distinguish from heartworm microfilariae. Blood chemistries: Complete blood counts and blood tests for kidney and liver function may give an indirect indication of the presence of heartworm disease.

These tests are also performed on dogs diagnosed as heartworm-infected to determine the function of the dog's organs prior to treatment.

How are dogs treated for heartworms? There is some risk involved in treating dogs with heartworms, although fatalities are rare. In the past, the drug used to treat heartworms contained arsenic so toxic effects and reactions occurred somewhat frequently. Now a newer drug is available that does not have the toxic side-effects of the old one. We are able to successfully treat more than 95% of dogs with heartworms. We see some dogs with advanced heartworm disease. This means that the heartworms have been present long enough to cause substantial damage to the heart, lungs, blood vessels, kidneys, and liver. A few of these cases will be so far advanced that it will be safer to just treat the organ damage rather than risk treatment to kill the worms. Dogs in this condition are not likely to live more than a few weeks or months.

How can I prevent this from happening again? When a dog has been successfully treated for heartworms, you cannot sit back and relax because dogs can be reinfected. Therefore, it is essential to begin a heartworm prevention program. There are drugs which can be used to prevent heartworm infection. Heartgard® Preventative is chewable tablets that are given only once monthly. It is very safe and very effective. A preventative be started immediately after the treatment.

Please call us for your companions appointment for a heartworm test and preventative. 320-252-6700

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PUPPY - GETTING STARTED AND HOUSE TRAINING GUIDE

When you bring a new puppy into your home there will be a period of adjustment. Your goals are to help your puppy to quickly bond to its new family, and to minimize the stress associated with leaving its mother, littermates, and former home. If there are already dogs in the new home the transition may be a little easier as the puppy is able to identify with its own kind. Obtaining two puppies would be another option. However, most puppies, especially those obtained before 12 weeks of age, will form attachments almost immediately to the people and any other pets in the new home, provided that there are no unpleasant consequences associated with each new person and experience. 

How do I prevent my puppy from doing damage or getting into mischief? 

The rule of thumb for dog training is "set the dog up for success". Supervise the puppy at all times until it has learned what it is allowed to chew, and where it is supposed to eliminate. Keeping the puppy on a 10 foot remote leash is an excellent way to keep it in sight, and to train it not to wander off. This is particularly helpful with a highly investigative puppy or for a very busy household. At any time that the puppy cannot be supervised, such as throughout the night or when you need to go out, house it in a secure area. An escape-proof crate, a dog run, or collapsible pen are simple, highly effective, and most important, safe. The puppy could also be confined to a room that has been carefully dog proofed. When selecting your dog's confinement area it is useful to consider a number of factors. The dog will adapt fastest to the new area if it is associated with rewards. Have the puppy enter the area for all its treats, toys, and perhaps food and water. The area should have some warm, dry, comfortable bedding, and should never be used for punishment (although it can, and should, be used to prevent problems). Housing the puppy in isolated areas where there is minimal human contact, such as in a laundry room or basement, should be avoided. In fact, often the best area is a kitchen (so that this can also be the dog's feeding area) or a bedroom (so that it becomes the dog's sleeping area). Each time the puppy needs to be confined, it should first be well exercised and given an opportunity to eliminate. Another consideration in selecting the type of confinement area is how long you may need to leave the dog alone. Anytime the puppy will be left alone for longer than it can control its elimination, you must provide an area for elimination. A room or collapsible pen with a paper-covered area would be needed. A cage or crate could be used for owners that do not have to leave their puppies confined for longer than 2 or 3 hours. 

What is the best way to punish my puppy for misbehavior? 

Every effort should be made to avoid punishment for new puppies as it is generally unnecessary and can lead to avoidance of family members, at a time when bonding and attachment is critical. By preventing problems through confinement or supervision, providing for all of the puppy's needs, and setting up the environment for success, little or no punishment should ever be required. If a reprimand is needed, a verbal "no" or a loud noise is usually sufficient to distract a puppy so that you can then redirect the puppy to the correct behavior. 

How can I prevent problems? 

Supervise the puppy at all times that it is not confined to ensure that the puppy does not get itself into mischief, or cause damage to itself or the home. Leaving a remote leash attached is all that is usually needed to prevent or interrupt inappropriate behavior such as garbage raiding, chewing on household items, house-soiling, or wandering off into rooms or areas that are out of bounds. If the leash is attached to a head halter you can quickly correct other problems that might arise, such as nipping, play biting, and jumping up. When the puppy cannot be supervised, confinement (discussed above) will be necessary. 

What must I do to provide for my puppy's needs? 

Chewing, play, exercise, exploration, feeding, social contact and elimination are basic requirements of all puppies. By providing appropriate outlets for each of these needs, few problems are likely to emerge. Puppies should be given chew toys that interest them and occupy their time. When supervised, the owner can allow the puppy to investigate and explore its new environment and can direct the puppy to the appropriate chew toys (and away from inappropriate areas). Play, exercise, affection, training, and handling must all be part of the daily routine. New tasks, new routines, new people and new forms of handling can be associated with rewards to ensure success. And, of course, the puppy will need to be provided with an acceptable area for elimination, and will need guidance until it learns to use this area. 

How do I house-train my puppy? 

All it requires are a few basic rules to house-train puppies within a few days. This does not mean that the puppy will be able to be trusted to wander throughout the home without eliminating. What the puppy should quickly learn is where it should eliminate, and the consequences of eliminating indoors when the owner is supervising. 

     A. Puppies have a strong urge to eliminate after sleeping, playing, feeding and drinking. Prepare to take your puppy to its selected elimination area within 30 minutes of each of these activities. In addition, although some puppies can control themselves through the entire night, most puppies need to eliminate every 3 to 4 hours during the daytime. With each passing month, you can expect your puppy to control itself a little longer between elimination times. The puppy should be taken to its elimination area, given a word or two of verbal encouragement (e.g. "Hurry up") and as soon as elimination is completed, lavishly praised and patted. A few tasty food treats can also be given the first few times the puppy eliminates in the right spot, and then intermittently thereafter. This teaches the puppy the proper place to eliminate, and that elimination in that location is associated with rewards. Some puppies may learn to eliminate when they hear the cue words ("Hurry up"). Always go outdoors with your puppy to ensure that it has eliminated and so that rewards can be given immediately upon completion, and not when the dog comes back indoors (too late!). 

     B. When indoors the puppy must be supervised so that you can see when it needs to eliminate and immediately take it outdoors to its elimination area. Should pre-elimination signs (circling, squatting, sneaking-off, heading to the door) occur, immediately take the dog to its elimination site, give the cue words, and reward the puppy for elimination. If the puppy begins to eliminate indoors, use a verbal reprimand or shake can, and immediately take the puppy outdoors to its proper site, so that it can complete the act. Rather than using punishment, it is best to always supervise your puppy. One of the best techniques is to leave a remote lead attached. 

     C. When you are not available to supervise, the puppy should be confined to its confinement area.  Be certain that your puppy has had a chance to eliminate, and has had sufficient play and exercise before any lengthy confinement. If the area is small enough, such as a pen or crate, many puppies will have sufficient control to keep this area clean. This means that when you come to release the puppy from confinement, it must be taken directly to its elimination area. If the area is too large for the puppy to keep clean, or the puppy is left alone too long for it to control itself, the entire area, except for the puppies bed and feeding spot, should be covered with paper for elimination. Once the puppy starts to limit its elimination to some selected areas, unused areas of the paper can be taken up. For owners that intend to continue to use paper for training, even when home, the puppy should be supervised when released from confinement, and then returned to this area when pre-elimination signs are seen. 

Why does my puppy refuse to eliminate in my presence, even when outdoors? 

Puppies that are not supervised and rewarded for outdoor elimination, but are constantly being disciplined and punished for indoor elimination, may soon begin to fear to eliminate in all locations in your presence. These puppies do not associate the punishment with indoor elimination; they associate the punishment with the presence of the owners. 

What do I do if I find some stool or urine in an inappropriate spot? 

There is no point in punishing or even pointing out the problem to the puppy. Only if the puppy is in the act of elimination will it understand the consequences (rewards or punishment). In fact, it is not the puppy who has erred, it is the owner who has erred by not properly supervising. 

How can I teach my puppy to signal that it needs to go out to eliminate? 

By regularly taking the dog outdoors, through the same door, to the same site, and providing rewards for proper elimination, the puppy should soon learn to head for the door each time it has to eliminate. If you recognize the signs of impending elimination and praise the puppy whenever it heads for the doorway, the behavior can be further encouraged. Puppies that have been interrupted or reprimanded on one or more occasions as they begin to eliminate indoors, may begin to try to sneak away, whine or show some form of anxiety, when they feel the urge to eliminate, but cannot escape from the owner's sight. If you can pick up on these cues, and take the puppy directly to the outdoors for elimination and reward, the puppy may consistently begin to show these signals when he or she needs to eliminate, and may even begin to take you to the exit door. 

When will I be able to trust my puppy to wander loose throughout the home? 

Generally you will want your dog to have been error free around the house for about a month before you can begin to decrease your confinement and supervision. The first time you leave the puppy unsupervised should be just after taking the dog outdoors for elimination. Gradually increase the length of time that your dog is allowed to roam through the home without supervision. If the dog has been able to go unsupervised for a couple of hours without an "accident", it might then be possible to begin going out for short periods of time. Of course, if the dog still investigates and chews, then confinement and supervision may still be necessary.

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How to Puppy and Kitten Proof Your House

Kittens and puppies are naturally inquisitive, which can often lead to serious injury. Here are some tips on how you can make your house safer for the new arrival.

That's shocking - Young animals love to chew when they are teething. Keep electrical wires out of reach, or use a Pet-repellent spray.

They'd die for some chocolate - Chocolate can be dangerous. It contains theobromine, a powerful stimulant that is toxic to pets. Sweets, cokes and cookies can also upset an animal's GI tract and lead to diarrhea and vomiting which can be serious.

Treats can be threats - Never give turkey, chicken or rib bones as a treat. They can splinter and cause serious injury.

Common household killers - Cleaning agents bleach, ammonia, disinfectants, drain cleaner, oven cleaner, paint gasoline, rat poison. Keep them locked up.

Check the antifreeze - Pets are attracted to the odor and sweet taste of antifreeze. Store it high and tightly sealed, wiping up any spills on the garage floor. Use the newer and safer brands of antifreeze. Window-washing solution also contains antifreeze. And remember, engine warmth promotes catnaps, so honk your horn to wake pets under the hood.

Killer house plants - Poisonous plants include lilies, philodendron, dieffenbachia, elephant ear, eucalyptus, spider plants, azaleas, ivy, amaryllis, pyracantha, oleander, boxwood, Jerusalem Cherry and plant bulbs.

Keep off the grass - If you treat your lawn with chemicals, keep pets away. Read and follow label directions carefully. It fit yesterday - Puppies and kittens grow rapidly. Collars and harnesses can be rapidly outgrown, leading to serious wounds.

Take care of personal care items and medications - Cosmetics, shampoos, skin creams, hair "perm" solutions, depilatories, suntan lotions, sleeping pills, antihistamines, aspirin and acetaminophen can all be lethal to pets. It is not a toy - Don't leave plastic bags out. Inquisitive young animals, especially kittens, can suffocate.

The heat is on - Watch out for hot irons, coffeepots and space heaters. Kittens and puppies will suddenly be able to jump to new heights.

A dip tip - Keep covers on hot tubs & swimming pools. Kittens & even young puppies can fall in and not be able to get out.

'Tis the season - keep holly, mistletoe and especially Christmas tree tinsel out of reach.

Cozy up - always use a fireplace screen.

Do you eat with that mouth? - Rule of thumb: If any or all of something will fit in a mouth, it is dangerous. Watch out for cigarette butts, rubber bands, balloons, sewing needles, thread, string, ribbons, and yes, even pantyhose. Because what goes in must come out, often via surgery.

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Summer health tips for your pets

The long hot days of summer don’t have to be hazardous to your pet’s health. A little precaution can go a long way in protecting your pet from seasonal health threats. For instance, parked cars are potential death traps during hot summer months because temperatures inside the car can easily climb to 120 degrees F on a sunny day. If you absolutely must leave your pet in a car, please do the following:

The following are other tips to protect your pet’s health in the summertime:

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HEARTWORMS IN CATS  

Heartworms are 9-11” long worms that live in a cat’s heart or in the arteries going to the lungs (pulmonary arteries).  Although they occur commonly in dogs, most people do not consider them a problem for the cat.  However, recent studies of cats with heart and respiratory diseases have found an incidence of heartworms that is far greater than we previously thought.

 How are heartworms transmitted to a cat?

 Heartworms are transmitted through mosquitoes.  When an infected mosquito bites a cat, it deposits baby heartworms (larvae).  The larvae migrate and mature for several months, ending up in the right side of the heart and the pulmonary arteries.  They mature into adult heartworms about six months from the time they enter the cat.  Shortly thereafter, they begin to release immature heartworms, known as microfilaria.  Microfilaria live in the cat’s blood for about one month.  They are ingested by mosquitoes feeding on the cat.  (However, most mosquitoes acquire microfilaria by feeding on heartworm-infected dogs.)  Because of their life cycle, it is necessary for a cat to be bitten by a mosquito to be infected with heartworms.  Heartworms are not transmitted directly from one cat to another nor from a dog directly to a cat.

 How are heartworms diagnosed?

 There are several methods used in diagnosing heartworms; unfortunately, none are 100% reliable so a combination of tests is often needed.  The diagnostic sequence usually progresses as follows:

 Clinical Signs

 One of the difficult things about diagnosing heartworms is that there are no consistent clinical signs.  The most common signs are coughing and rapid breathing.  However, both can be caused by several other diseases.  Other common clinical signs include weight loss and vomiting, also common in other diseases.  Some cats seem to be normal, then die suddenly.  This happens due to a reaction within the lungs to the young heartworms or when dead or live heartworms enter the pulmonary arteries and obstruct the flow of blood to the lungs.

 Blood Tests

 1.  There are two relatively new tests that are proving to be very helpful in diagnosing heartworms.  The heartworm antibody test determines that the cat’s immune system has been exposed to heartworms.  A positive test may indicate that an active infection is present.  However, cats who have had heartworms but whose heartworms have died will also have antibodies for an unknown period of time; suspected to be 2-4 months.  Cats with late stage larvae that are not yet adults and cats with adult heartworms in places other than the heart may also test positive with the antibody test.  This test is very sensitive, so it is used first.  However, if it is positive the next test is performed. 

 2.  The next test is the heartworm antigen test.  This detects the presence of adult female heartworms.  It is very specific, but not as sensitive.  A positive test indicates that heartworms are present, but a negative test does not mean that they are absent.  Because the cat must have at least two adult female worms present to make this test positive, a negative test may mean that the cat may only have a small number of worms or that all the worms present are male.  In summary, a diagnosis of heartworms is confirmed if both the antibody and antigen tests are positive.

 It should  be noted that most veterinarians are able to perform an in-hospital test to detect heartworm antigen in dogs.  However, the canine test is not as sensitive as the test for cats and it is an antigen test so using it will result in more false negative results.  There are newer antigen tests for cats that are sensitive for the lower numbers of worms present specifically for cats.

 3.  Blood can be tested for the presence of microfilaria.  However, less than 10% of cats with heartworms have microfilaria in their blood, and microfilaria are only present for 1-4 weeks.  Therefore, a negative test means little.

 4.  Cats suspected of heartworms can be tested for their level of eosinophils.  Eosinophils are normal white blood cells that occur in increased numbers when certain parasites are present.  They are elevated in the presence of heartworms, but this elevation only occurs for a few months.  In addition, cats with intestinal parasites (“worms”) and allergies also commonly have increased eosinophil counts.

 Radiographs

 Radiographs (x-rays) permit us to view the size and shape of the heart.  They also allow us to measure the diameter of the pulmonary arteries.  Many cats with heartworms have an increase in the size of the pulmonary arteries; they may suddenly come to an apparent stop (blunted) on their way to the lungs due to worms obstructing them.  However, many cats with heartworms have no abnormal findings on their radiographs, especially early in the infection.

 An angiogram is an x-ray study in which contrast material (dye) is injected into the heart or veins and is seen as it goes through the pulmonary arteries.  This illuminates the arteries so they can be seen better.  There is some risk to this procedure so it is not used often.

 Ultrasound

 An ultrasound machine produces an image of internal organs and structures without the use of radiation.  It is a testing procedure that is becoming more and more common in veterinary practices.  With it, one is able to view the internal structures of the heart and the pulmonary arteries.  In some cats, the actual heartworms can be seen; this finding confirms the presence of heartworms.  However, in many cats the worms are not seen.  

Can heartworms be treated?

 There is no drug approved for treating heartworms in cats.  One of the drugs for treating dogs has been used in cats, but there are potential side-effects.  Another problem is that when the heartworms die they pass through the pulmonary arteries to the lungs.  This can result in sudden death.  Thus, we have a dilemma when a cat is diagnosed with heartworms.  One of two choices must be made:

 1.  Treat with the drug designed for dogs.  However, this is a drug that has been shown to have side-effects in cats.  These side- effects include acute pulmonary (lung) failure and death in a  percentage of cats.

 2.  Treat the symptoms of heartworm disease and hope the cat outlives the worms.  Since heartworms live in a cat for about two years, several months of treatment are needed.  When cats are in a crisis, they are treated with oxygen, corticosteroids (“cortisone”) to relieve the reaction occurring in the pulmonary arteries and lungs, and, if needed, drugs to remove fluid from the lungs (diuretics).  When they are stable, they are treated continuously or periodically with corticosteroids.  However, the threat of an acute crisis or sudden death always exists.

 Is there a way to prevent heartworms?

 It is strongly recommended that dogs take drugs to prevent heartworms.  It is well accepted that even dogs in cold climates should be on heartworm prevention at least part of the year.  Now, some of the same drugs are formulated for cats.  Therefore, prevention of heartworms is safe and easy.   The reasons that heartworm prevention should be considered for your cat are:  

1.  Diagnostic Difficulty.  Diagnosing heartworms is not as easy in cats as in dogs.  A simple and reliable in-hospital blood test is not yet available, and the tests that are most reliable must be sent to an outside laboratory.  Often, radiographs or ultrasound studies are needed to confirm the diagnosis.  Many cats are diagnosed with an autopsy following sudden death.  

2.  Incidence Unknown.  Heartworms are not nearly as common in cats as they are in dogs.  However, they are probably more common than we realize.  As we look more aggressively for heartworms in cats with better and better tests, we expect to find that the incidence is greater than we thought in the past.  

3.  No Good Treatment.  There is no good treatment for heartworm-infected cats.  Effective drugs are not available, and cats that seem to be doing well may die suddenly.  Treating heartworm infections in cats is risky, and not treating these cats is just as risky.  If they are cured of the disease, it takes about two years.  

4.  Prevention Easy.  Cats given heartworm prevention drugs have not shown signs of toxicity.  Since they only have to be given once each month and since they are formulated so that cats will eat them readily, administration is not a problem (in most cats).  There is a wide margin of safety, even in kittens as young as six weeks of age.  

5.  Indoor Cats Also.  Exposure to mosquitoes is required for transmission.  Cats do not have to be exposed to cats or dogs infected with heartworms.  Obviously, cats that go outdoors are more likely to be exposed; however, about 25% of cats that are diagnosed with heartworms are reported by their owners to be indoor only.  This simply means that mosquitoes that come into the house are just as dangerous as the ones outdoors.  

6.  Other Benefits.  The heartworm preventative, Heartgard® also protects against and kills adult roundworms which your cat can get at any time of year from mice or  other rodents, beetles and flies, contact with other dogs or cats or their feces.

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HOUSE-SAFETY:  CONFINEMENT AND CRATE TRAINING

Why do dogs need to be confined?  

Dogs are highly social animals that make wonderful pets.  They can be effective as watchdogs, are excellent companions for play and exercise, and are sources of affection and comfort.  However, with the lifestyle and schedule of the majority of families, dogs must learn to spend a portion of the day at home, while their human family is away at school, work, shopping or recreational activities.  During those times when you are away and unavailable to supervise, the pet may still feel the need to chew, play, explore, eat, or eliminate.   

How can this misbehavior be prevented?

 Preventing such inappropriate behaviors when you are absent involves both scheduling and prevention.  Scheduling means insuring that the pet has had the opportunity to play, eat, and eliminate before you leave it in its confinement area or crate.  Prevention involves keeping the pet in a confined area where it is secure, safe, and can do no damage to itself or your possessions. 

 What are my options for confinement?

 Depending on the structure of your home, it may be possible to dog-proof the house by closing a few doors, or putting up some child gates or barricades.  The dog can then be allowed access to the remaining areas of the house.  If this dog-proofing is not possible when you have to leave, confine the dog to a single room, pen, or crate.  This smaller confinement area not only provides safety for the dog and protection of the home from damage, but also provides a means of teaching the dog what it is supposed to chew, and where it is supposed to eliminate. 

 Isn’t crate training cruel?  

Crate training is neither cruel nor unfair.  On the contrary, leaving the dog unsupervised to wander, investigate, destroy, and perhaps injure itself is far more inhumane than confinement.  Ensure that the crate is large enough that the dog gets sufficient food, play, exercise and attention before it is confined, and you return before the dog needs to urinate or defecate.

 What are the benefits of crate training?

The two most important benefits are the safety it affords the pet, and the damage that is prevented.  The cage also provides a place of security; a comfortable retreat where the dog can relax, sleep, or chew on a favorite toy.  By confining the pet to a crate or room, when the owner is not available to supervise, behavior problems can be immediately prevented.  When you are at home, supervision and rewards can be used to prevent undesirable behavior, and to teach the dog where to eliminate, what to chew, and what rooms and areas are “out of bounds”.   

Will cage confinement help with house-training?  

Yes.  Crate training is one of the quickest and most effective ways to house-train a dog.  Since most dogs instinctively avoid eliminating in their sleeping and eating areas, dogs that use their crate as a bed or “den” will seldom eliminate inside unless they have been left in the crate for too long.  Crate training can also help teach the dog to develop control over its elimination.  

As soon as your dog is released from its crate, take it to the designated area and reward elimination at acceptable locations.  Since the crate prevents chewing, digging, and elimination on the owner’s home and property, owners of crate trained puppies have fewer behavior concerns, the puppy receives far less discipline and punishment, and the overall relationship between pet and owner can be dramatically improved.

 Will the crate provoke barking?  

No.  The crate can also be a useful way to reduce or eliminate distress barking.  Rather than locking the puppy up and away from the owners at nighttime or during mealtime, the puppy can be housed in its crate in the bedroom or kitchen.  In this way the puppy cannot get into mischief, and is less likely to cry out or vocalize, if the owners are in the room.  If the puppy is locked away in a laundry room or basement with no access to the owners, distress vocalization is far more likely.  If the owner then goes to the puppy to quiet it down or check it out, the crying behavior is rewarded.    

What about caging and travel?  

Of course, throughout its life, whether traveling or boarding, the dog may require crate confinement.  Those dogs that are familiar and comfortable with caging are more likely to feel secure, and far less stressed, should caging be required.  

      PUPPY CRATE TRAINING

What type of crate or confinement area works best?  

A metal, collapsible crate with a tray floor works well, as long as the crate is large enough for the dog to stand, turn, and stretch out.  Some dogs feel more secure if a blanket is draped over the crate.  A plastic traveling crate or a homemade crate can also be used.  Playpens or barricades may also be successful as long as they are indestructible and escape proof.  

Where should the cage be located?  

Because dogs are social animals, an ideal location for the crate is a room where the family spends time such as a kitchen, den, or bedroom rather than an isolated laundry or furnace room.  

How can crating or confinement become a positive experience?  

Most dogs quickly choose a small area, such as a corner of a room, in a dog bed, or on or under a couch, where they go to relax.  The key to making the crate the dog’s favorite retreat and sleeping area, is to associate the crate with as many positive and relaxing experiences and stimuli as possible (food, treats, chew toys, bedding) and to place the dog in its cage only at scheduled rest and sleep periods.  You must therefore be aware of the dog’s schedule, including its needs for exploration, play, food, and elimination, so that the dog is only placed in its cage, when each of these needs is fulfilled.  You must then return to the dog to release it from its cage before the next exercise, feeding or elimination period is due.   

A radio or television playing in the background may help to calm the dog when it is alone in its cage, especially during the daytime.  These may also help to mask environmental noises, which can stimulate the dog to vocalize.  

The crate should never be used as punishment.   

How do I crate-train my new puppy?  

1)  Introduce the puppy to the crate as soon as it is brought home and as early in the day as possible.  Place a variety of treats in the cage throughout the day so that the puppy is encouraged to enter voluntarily.  Food, water, toys and bedding could also be offered to the puppy in the open cage.  

2)  Choose a location outdoors for the puppy to eliminate.  Take the puppy to the location, wait until the puppy eliminates, and reward the puppy lavishly with praise or food.  After some additional play and exercise, place the puppy in its crate with water, a toy and a treat and close the door.

3)  If the puppy is tired and calm, it may take a “nap” shortly after being placed in its crate.

4)  Leave the room but remain close enough to hear the puppy.  Escape behavior and vocalization are to be expected when a dog is first placed into its crate.  If the “complaints” are short or mild, ignore the dog until the crying stops.  Never release the puppy unless it is quiet.  This teaches that quiet behavior, and not crying will be rewarded.  Release the puppy after a few minutes of quiet or a short nap.

5)  Punishment may be useful to deter crying if it does not subside on its own.  A shaker can (a sealed can filled with coins or marbles) can be tossed at the crate when the pup barks.  Other methods include water sprayers or alarms (audible or ultrasonic).  The owner should remain out of sight.  By plugging in an alarm, tape recorder, water pik, or hair dryer beside the crate and turning it on with a remote control switch each time the dog barks, the dog can be taught that barking leads to punishment whether the owner is present or not.  When the barking ceases, the punishment is stopped.  Bark collars and alarms or water sprayers that are activated by the barking are also available for persistent problems.  Punishment must always be used with caution, since it can exacerbate the vocalization problem of a very anxious pet.

6)  Repeat the cage and release procedure a few more times during the day before bedtime.  Place the puppy in its crate a few times before the end of the day.  Each time, increase the time that the dog must stay in the crate before letting it out.  Always give the puppy exercise and a chance to eliminate before locking it in the crate.

7)  At bedtime, the dog should be exercised, locked in its crate, and left for the night.  Do not go to the dog if it cries.  Remote punishment can be used to deter crying.  Alternately, the crate can be kept in the bedroom.

8)  If the pup sleeps in one end of its crate and eliminates in the other, a divider can be installed to keep the puppy in a smaller area.

9)  Never leave the puppy in its crate for longer than it can control itself or it may be forced to eliminate in the crate. 

10)  If the pup must be left for long periods during which it might eliminate, it should be confined to a larger area such as a dog-proof room or pen, with paper left down for elimination.  As the puppy gets older, its control increases and it can be left longer in its crate.

11)  Although there is a great deal of individual variability, many puppies can control themselves through the night by 3 months of age.  During the daytime, once the puppy has relieved itself, a 2-month old puppy may have up to 3 hours control, a 3-month puppy up to 4 hours, and a 4-month-old puppy up to 5 hours.

12)  A crate is not an excuse to ignore the dog!  

        CRATE TRAINING ADULT DOGS

 What is the best technique for crate training older pets and adult dogs?  

1)  For adult dogs or older puppies that have not been crate trained previously, set up the crate in the dog's feeding area with the door open for a few days.  Place food, treats, and water in the crate so that the dog enters the crate on its own.  Another alternative is to place the crate in the dog's sleeping area with its bedding.  Once the dog is entering the crate freely, it is time to close the door.

2)  Using the same training techniques as for “sit and stay” training, have the dog enter its crate for short periods of time to obtain food, treats, or chew toys.  Once the pet expects treats each time it enters the crate, train the dog to enter the crate on command (e.g. kennel!), and have the dog remain in the kennel for progressively longer periods of time, before the dog is allowed to exit.  Give small rewards each time the dog enters the cage at first, and give the dog a favored chew toy or some food to help make the stay more enjoyable.  At first, the door can remain opened during these training sessions. 

3)  When the dog is capable of staying comfortably and quietly in the crate begin to lock the dog in the crate at nighttime.  Once the dog sleeps in the crate through the night, try leaving the pet in the crate during the daytime.  Try short departures first, and gradually make them longer.  

Is crate training practical for all dogs?  

An occasional dog may not tolerate crate training, and may continue to show anxiety, or even eliminate when confined.  These dogs may adapt better to other types of confinement such as a pen, dog run, small room, or barricaded area.  Of course, if the dog is being left alone for longer than it can control (hold in) its elimination, it will be necessary to provide an area much larger than a cage, so that the pet has a location on which to eliminate, away from its food and bedding.  

Continued anxiety, destruction or vocalization when placed in the crate may indicate separation anxiety.  The intervention of a behaviorist may be needed.

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BEHAVIOR:  CAUSES AND DIAGNOSIS OF PROBLEMS

 What makes a pet misbehave?  

Behavior problems can be due to medical or behavioral causes, or both.  A clinical history, physical examination, and diagnostic testing will determine if there are underlying medical conditions contributing to the problem. Although there may be a single cause for a behavior problem it is often the combined effect of the environment and learning on the pet’s mental and physical health that determines behavior.   

For example, the pet that is fearful of children, may begin to become more reactive, irritable, and aggressive as diseases such as dental problems or arthritis make it more uncomfortable, painful or less mobile.  

Another example is the cat that had been exposed to other cats roaming across its territory, but only began to mark when it developed an overactive thyroid at 10 years of age.  Correcting the thyroid problem as well as behavior modification techniques resolved the problem.  

What are some behavioral causes of behavior problems?   

Any change in the environment may contribute to the emergence of behavior problems.  For example, schedule changes, a new member of the household (baby, spouse), moving, loss of a family member or pet, or the addition of a new pet can have a dramatic impact on behavior.  Any medical or degenerative changes associated with aging may cause the pet to be even more sensitive to these environmental changes.    

Learning (e.g. reinforcement, punishment) also plays a role in most behavior problems.  When a pet’s actions result in unpleasant consequences (discomfort, lack of attention) i.e. punishment, the chances of repeating the behavior will decrease.  If the behavior is followed by pleasant consequences such as obtaining food, attention, or affection (rewards), the behavior is likely to be repeated.  These consequences could occur unintentionally as when the pet gets into the garbage and finds some appealing leftovers, or could be administered by the owners, as when a reward is given following a behavior.  It can be difficult to determine what might be reinforcing a behavior, but reinforcement maintains behavior problems.  

What tests can be done to determine a behavioral cause?  

A good history is one of the most important means of determining the cause of a behavioral problem.  This involves an in depth analysis of the pet’s medical and behavioral past including any training, as well as the circumstances surrounding the problem itself.  Daily interactions with the pet and any changes in schedule need to be explored.  Often the event that precipitated the behavioral change may be different from that which maintains it.  

Based on the behavioral problem, the pet’s age, and a physical examination, the veterinarian first determines if there are any medical causes or contributing factors.  Diagnosis of a behavioral cause can only be made after all medical factors have been ruled out.   

What medical conditions can cause or contribute to behavior problems?  

A decline in the pet’s hearing, sight or other senses, organ dysfunction (e.g. liver or kidney disease), hormonal diseases, diseases affecting the nervous system, diseases of the urinary tract (infections, tumors or stones), any disease or condition that might lead to pain or discomfort, and those that affect the pets mobility can all cause or contribute to behavior problems.  

a) Any condition that leads to an increase in pain or discomfort can lead to increased irritability, increased anxiety or fear of being handled or approached, and ultimately an increased aggressiveness.  If these aggressive displays are successful at removing the “threat” (and they usually are) the behavior is reinforced.  Medical conditions that affect the ears, anal sacs, teeth and gums, bones, joints, or back (disks) are some of the more common causes of pain and discomfort.  If the pets mobility is affected, it may become increasingly aggressive, choosing to threaten and bite, rather than retreat.  A decrease in mobility could also affect urination and defecation by reducing the pet’s desire or ability to utilize its elimination area.   

b) Sensory dysfunction: Pets with diminished sight or hearing may have a decreased ability to detect or identify the stimuli, and might begin to respond differently to commands, sounds or sights.  Sensory decline is more likely to be seen as pet’s age.   

c) Diseases of the internal organs, such as the kidneys or liver, can cause a number of behavior changes, primarily due to the toxic metabolites that accumulate in the bloodstream.  Organ decline and dysfunction is more common in the older pet.  Any medical conditions that cause an increased frequency of urination or          decreased urine control, such as kidney disease, bladder infections, bladder stones, or neurological damage might lead to an increase in house soiling.  Similarly, those problems that affect the frequency of bowel movements or bowel control, such as colitis or constipation might lead to house soiling with stools.   

d) Diseases of the brain and spinal cord can lead to a number of behavior and personality changes.  Conditions such as epilepsy, brain tumors, infections, immune and degenerative diseases can all directly affect a dog or cat’s nervous system and therefore its behavior.  In the older pet aging changes can have a direct effect on the brain, leading to cognitive dysfunction and senility. 

e) The endocrine (hormone) system also plays a critical role in behavior.  Over-activity or under-activity of any of the endocrine organs can lead to a number of behavior problems.  The thyroid and parathyroid glands (in the neck), the pituitary gland (in the brain), the adrenal gland (by the kidneys), the pancreas, and the reproductive organs can all be affected by conditions or tumors that lead to an increase or decrease in hormone production.  Endocrine disorders are more likely to arise as the pet ages.  

f) The aging process is associated with progressive and irreversible changes of the body systems.  Although these changes are often considered individually, the elderly pet is seldom afflicted with a single disease, but rather varying degrees of organ disease and dysfunction.  Cognitive decline and senility have also been recognized in older dogs (and perhaps cats).  

What tests need to be done to determine if my pet’s behavior problem is due to a medical condition?  

Clinical history and physical examination  

The assessment begins with a clinical history and physical examination.  Laboratory tests may be needed.  A more comprehensive examination such as a neurological examination or sensory testing may be required.  For some of these tests your pet may need to be referred to a specialist.  

Medical, surgical, dietary or pharmacologic treatment  

Before beginning behavior therapy, any medical problem that has been diagnosed should be treated.  A change in diet or a drug trial may be an important aspect of differentiating a medical from a behavioral cause (as a food trial or steroid trial might be used to rule out an underlying allergic cause).  Surgery may also be indicated such as when a tumor is diagnosed or when castration is indicated to reduce male sexually influenced behaviors.  For long standing behavior problems your veterinarian may commence medical and behavioral treatment.

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HOUSE TRAINING:  USING THE LITTER BOX

Do I need to train my new kitten to use a litter box?

 Cats by nature use a soil type surface for elimination.  By providing a litter box with an appropriate and appealing substrate (material), most cats do not need to be trained to use it.  At about 30-36 days of age kittens leave the nest to search out a loose substrate for elimination.  The kitten learns specific areas and substrates to use by observation of the queen (mother).  Kittens dig in the substrate and bury their stools and urine.  

Is there anything that I need to do to aid this process?  

Initially it is important that the kitten be confined to a small area with an appropriate sized litter box.  This allows you to take advantage of a cat’s tendency to eliminate in a loose material.  As long as the kitty litter is the only loose substrate available, and especially if it is the same type of substrate that it is used to from its previous home, very little effort should be required to litter box train the kitten.  About the only other indoor area that might appeal to a number of cats is the soil around houseplants.  Ensuring that the cat is prevented from getting into houseplants, except when you are around to supervise deals with this problem.  Kittens, like dogs, will need to eliminate after they eat, after they wake up and after play.  At those times place the kitten in its litterbox and praise her for elimination.  A kitten does not need to be confined continuously, but should be supervised to prevent accidents and fr